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Hello again Finland! I’ll take a wild guess here and say many of you haven’t heard of Suomussalmi, I hadn’t until recently. But you most likely did hear of the Arctic Lakeland region. No? Well let me start by telling you about this fantastic alternative to Finnish Lapland.
Suomussalmi doesn’t make it onto many travel lists for Finland, which is great for you because you’re finding a real hidden gem. It’s a small town in North-eastern Finland, deep in the forests of Kainuu.
There are no crowds, it’s peaceful, and this is probably one of the best places in the world to visit as a nature lover.
I visited Suomussalmi for 4 days, and I’ll go through the activities, some frequently asked questions that people have, and a lot more. Here’s my complete Suomussalmi travel guide and itinerary.
Suomussalmi Travel Guide – Overview
Suomussalmi is in the Kainuu region, eastern Finland. You’ll get easy access to big wilderness areas and some surprisingly moving historical sites. It’s a little far from Helsinki, and that’s why it’s better to fly than driving.
Here’s an overview with all the essentials about Suomussalmi you should know before going.
Where is Suomussalmi?
Suomussalmi is a town in northeastern Finland in the Arctic Lakeland Region, close to the Russian border. Suomussalmi sits right on National Road 5 (E63), so getting here by car is pretty straightforward, it’s just far.
From Kajaani, it’s about 100 km north; from Helsinki, you’re looking at around 650 km.
The town is wedged between a few big lakes, and Hossa National Park is about 40 km northeast. It’s remote, but not so far that getting supplies is a hassle.
How to Get to Suomussalmi?
Flying is the easiest way to get there. The closest airport is Kajaani, about 100 km south of Suomussalmi. That’s what I did, and it made life a lot simpler. Finnair connects Helsinki to Kajaani, and from there it’s a 90-minute drive north.
Driving is a good second option if you’re already in Finland. National Road 5 (E63) goes straight through town, and the drive from Helsinki takes around 7-8 hours. Just make sure your car has winter tires because the roads up here get properly icy.
Is Suomussalmi Worth Visiting?
If you’re into history, wildlife, or just want a taste of real Finnish culture, it’s a solid pick. Suomussalmi and the Arctic Lakeland region are very authentic.
Hossa National Park is the big draw. It was opened in 2017, it has great hiking, canoeing, and wildlife.
The area has also got interesting history from the Winter War, especially around the battles of Suomussalmi and Raate Road. You can check out bunkers, monuments, and a couple of small museums if you’re into military history.
Outdoor activities are the main thing here. In summer, you can go fishing, paddling, hiking. In winter, you can cross-country ski, snowshoe, take a husky safari or just stare at the sky hoping for northern lights.
Where to Stay and Accommodation in Suomussalmi
In the town centre (right on National Road 5), you’ll find a few small hotels and guesthouses. Nothing fancy, but they get the job done. Here are the best hotels in Suomussalmi:
If you’d rather pick your own place to stay, you can browse all the hotels on Booking or Expedia and choose the one that suits you best.
Luxury: Hotel Kiannon Kuohut (Rated 7.2/10)
Mid-Range: Kettula Getaway (Rated 9.7/10)
Budget: Ämmän Hotelli (Rated 7.7/10)
Travelling on a budget? Check out all the other hotels on Booking or Expedia
Things to Do in Suomussalmi, Arctic Lakeland
Winter is the best moment to visit, but there’s stuff worth doing year-round. You’ll find reindeer sleigh rides, husky tours, Hossa National Park, and the Silent People installation. Here are the best activities.
Reindeer Sleigh Ride and feeding at Korpiporo Farm
Korpiporo Farm is a historic and traditional reindeer farm that offers reindeer sleigh rides and reindeer feeding! They’re part of real local tradition, and it’s not an unethical tourist activity, so don’t worry about this part.
The rides are short, 15-30 minutes usually, but you can ask for longer if you want. You’ll get a quick intro to reindeer herding, the history and a nice glide in the snowy woods.
Kids (and adults) love feeding the reindeer and getting photos, so if you travel as a family, this is a must-do. I enjoyed feeding them way more than I expected!
Rides run all winter, but you need to book ahead. Also, wrap up warm as you’ll be sitting still, and it gets cold fast.
Hiking or Fat Biking in Hossa National Park
Fat biking’s caught on here, especially in winter. For adventure lovers like myself, and maybe you too, that’s a great thing. And the best part? The right tour guides will even have e-bikes!
The bikes have huge tires that float over snow, so you can cover more ground than on foot. Hossa National Park has marked routes, some easy, some a bit technical.
You’ll ride past frozen lakes, through pine forests, and over open fells. Rentals are available locally, and some places do guided tours. I went with Timo, a guide at Kainuun luontoretket, and I couldn’t recommend his tours enough.
Most tours last 2-3 hours and include the bike, helmet, and even a break by a campfire with freshly cooked soup and sausages! Wear layers; you’ll warm up fast but can get cold if you stop for long.
With this tour, Timo will also take you to the ancient rock paintings at the Värikallio Cliffs. They are among some of the largest prehistoric rock paintings in Finland, and believed to be 3,500 – 4,500 years old, and painted in the Stone Age. That’s simply mind blowing!
If you visit Suomussalmi or Arctic Lakeland in the summer, you can go hiking, which is really nice too.
Hotels in Hossa National Park
Hossan Lomakeskus (Rated 8.2/10)
Lampiranta Log Cabin (Rated 8.7/10)
Hossan Lumo (Rated 9.1/10)
Snowshoeing at Umpi-Valkeinen
Umpi-Valkeinen is a good spot for snowshoeing, especially if you’re new to it. Trails are marked and gentle, and the snowshoes will stop you sinking. You get to walk through forests and across frozen lakes, and that’s winter wonderland for you. You don’t need any experience, just strap on the snowshoes and go.
It’s a quiet way to see animal tracks and take in the landscape. Local guides can point out interesting stuff and help with technique, again we went with Timo, at Kainuun luontoretket.
I highly recommend going with an experienced local guide, but if you prefer to do your own thing, rentals are easy to find, and guided outings usually last 2-4 hours. I recommend bringing a thermos or reusable water bottle as there’s nowhere to buy coffee once you’re out in the wild.
Husky Safari with Norwide Finland
Norwide Finland runs husky safaris that are super fun and this is one of the best things to do in Finland, hands down, let alone one of the best things to do in Suomussalmi.
These dogs are in their element and so happy! Doing what come naturally to them, run! And the best bit? You can control the sled!! You get a short lesson on how to control the sled and most importantly brake, before heading off into the woods.
Trips range from an hour to a full day, and you can drive your own sled or ride as a passenger. I personally did a 4-hour tour and it was a proper bucket list tick for me, I can’t recommend this tour enough.
The handlers know their stuff and treat the dogs well. You’ll get to meet the huskies and ask about their training or care. You can even volunteer here. Some evening tours offer a shot at seeing the northern lights, but there’s no guarantee.
I honestly could have spent days here, it was such a fantastic experience. You’ll see just how excited i am in the YouTube video above. Before you go please try to book ahead because these tours sell out very quickly.
Northern Lights Watching
Suomussalmi is right in the auroral zone, and light pollution is almost non-existent. You’ve got a decent chance at seeing the northern lights from September to March, especially on clear, cold nights.
The best spots are away from town though. Hossa National Park or any of the lakes work well. Some local guides offer tours that include snowshoeing or a campfire, or how about the private cottage we stayed in below?
Download an aurora forecast app to check your odds (My Aurora Forecast & Alerts is quite good). Bring a tripod if you want photos, and dress for standing around in the cold. Trust me, you’ll regret it otherwise.
Stay in a private cottage with Sauna experience
Matkalaisen Pirtti is a stunning cottage that nails the Finnish sauna experience. You get a wood-fired sauna, then cool off outside (yes, sometimes in the snow), and finally soak in an outdoor hot tub. Repeat as needed. It’s oddly addictive.
You can book private sessions for small groups, so it’s great if you want some quiet time. This way you learn about the history of sauna in Finland and use traditional birch whisks (vihta). Winter evenings here are especially relaxing.
Note that you can also spend a few nights there, and sauna is included. On top of that, they also offer different activities like hunting, fishing, and more.
In addition we had our catering organised by a local chef, so food was brought to the cottage ready to go and it was absolutely delicious. The team at Matkalaisen Pirtti will help you to organise this.
Spa at Hotel Kiannon Kuohut
Hotel Kiannon Kuohut has a decent spa with multiple saunas, steam rooms, pools, and a menu of massages and treatments. It’s open to both guests of the hotel and walk-ins, and you can buy packages that include meals or longer stays.
They use local products in some treatments, which is a nice touch. The vibe is relaxed, which is good for couples or anyone needing a break from the cold. Book ahead if you want a specific treatment slot, especially in winter. And make sure you ask about the local sauna traditions 😉
Visit the Silent People Art Installation
Drive along National Highway 5 and you’ll suddenly see this “art installation.” Nearly a thousand figures standing in a field, completely still. It stops you in your tracks.
They’re dressed in all kinds “Out in the Nature” of clothes: wedding dresses, straw hats, gum boots, business suits. Peat heads, wooden bodies, clothes swaying in the wind. The field is dead silent, and it’s a self interpretation art piece.
Artist and dancer Reijo Kela created them in 1988, and they’ve been here along Highway 5 since 1994. He’s never explained what they mean, and that’s supposed to be intentional. You’re supposed to figure it out yourself.
Most people think they represent the soldiers who died nearby during the 1939-1940 Winter War between Finland and the Soviet Union. Others see something more personal in them. Well, I guess that’s the meaning of art for you.
Either way, in the middle of a frozen Finnish winter, the whole thing feels pretty heavy. And make sure to grab incredible local soup and salads at the onsite café, and visit Ritva, if you’re lucky she’ll sing for you.
What to Pack for Suomussalmi
Suomussalmi gets some serious seasonal swings. Winters can hit -20°C or colder, and summer, on the other hand, can surprise you with 20°C and sunshine. Pack accordingly.
In winter, layers are everything. Merino wool base, a fleece mid-layer, and a proper windproof jacket on top should do. Get boots rated to at least -30°C, thick wool socks, insulated gloves, and a hat that covers your ears. Don’t skip the neck warmer either. I thought that a head torch was handy, since daylight is short in this part of Europe.
Summer is more relaxed but don’t underestimate the mosquitoes around Hossa. Long sleeves and trousers will save you. Pack a waterproof jacket regardless (showers can show up out of nowhere) plus decent walking boots and sunglasses for all that lake glare.
Year-round: reusable water bottle (tap water is fine), sunscreen, insect repellent in summer, and a European Type C or F power adapter. Keep your passport, travel insurance, and booking confirmations on you, and save your guide’s number offline. I say that as phone network gets patchy out in the forests.
Aurora Lights in Suomussalmi and Finland
Suomussalmi’s up in Finland’s Kainuu region, so it’s an advantage if you want to see the northern lights. It’s remote with barely any light pollution, which is already a big bonus.
The key word is clear. If it’s cloudy, chances to spot them are pretty low. A cloudy sky won’t clear itself, and waiting around in -15°C for nothing isn’t that fun.
As I mentioned above, make sure to download the My Aurora Forecast & Alerts and always check the cloud forecast before committing to a late night.
For the best view, find an open spot away from streetlights. Frozen lakes and open fields work great, anything with a clear line to the north. Again, we’ve covered this a few times in this Suomussalmi travel guide, but do dress properly,
And last but not least, the lights aren’t guaranteed. But if the sky’s clear and you’re patient, Suomussalmi gives you a real shot at it.
Frequently Asked Questions
Before concluding this travel guide, let’s answer some questions that users often search online and that you may have too.
Is Suomussalmi Expensive?
Not really. Suomussalmi is cheaper than places like Helsinki or Finnish Lapland. Guesthouses and mid-range hotels are common, and you’ll usually pay less than in the bigger cities.
Eating out isn’t bad price-wise, especially if you stick to local spots instead of tourist traps. Hiking and checking out sites like the Raate Road battlefields are either free or charge a tiny entrance fee.
Petrol costs about the same as the rest of Finland. If you visit in summer, you’ll save on heating bills for accommodation. Buying groceries and cooking for yourself is definitely the cheapest option if you’re staying somewhere with a kitchen.
How Long to Stay in Suomussalmi?
Two or three days is enough to see the main sites and try one or a couple of outdoor activities. Three or four days gives you time for Hossa National Park, the Winter War museums, and a bit of downtime.
If you’re into hiking, fishing, or photography, stay longer (maybe a week?). If you want to ski, snowshoe, and hopefully catch the northern lights, you should plan for at least four days.
Lots of people use Suomussalmi as a base for day trips. The area is quite compact, so you can see a lot without feeling rushed, and that’s even if you’re short on time.
What are the Best Outdoor Activities in Suomussalmi?
Hiking’s probably the main thing to do. Hossa National Park has trails for all fitness levels, plus clear lakes and huge pine forests.
The fishing is good and ice fishing is popular in winter. There are plenty of lakes and rivers, with permits available for both summer and winter. Late summer is berry season, which means you’ll see people filling buckets with crowberries, bilberries, cloudberries, and others.
In winter, cross-country skiing is big. Trails are well-marked. Snowshoeing’s a good way to get off the beaten path, and you might spot reindeer, elk, or some cool birds if you’re lucky.
Canoeing and kayaking are great in summer. If you’re into history, there are walking routes tied to the Winter War battles that mix outdoor time with a bit of local culture.
Final Thoughts
Suomussalmi won’t make everyone’s list, and honestly, that’s fine. Distances are longer than they look, and if you don’t have a car, you’re going to struggle.
But if you’re after real Finnish wilderness like frozen lakes, silent forests, reindeer, huskies, and a genuine shot at the northern lights, then Arctic Lakeland is the place to be. It’s not trying to be a tourist destination, and that’s its charm.
Are you preparing your trip, or just considering your options? Let me know in the comment section here below.
This article was in partnership with Visit Suomassalmi but as always thoughts and opinions are my own, along with most of the photos.